PICATINNY RING SET

PRECISION SCOPE MOUNTING SOLUTION FOR LONG RANGE SHOOTING 

Tier One Picatinny Rings are precision made on 5 axis CNC machinery.

The key to accuracy in manufacture is to minimize the number of operations required to complete the machining process.

By investing in new Technology, we have been able to cut the number of operations required from eight to two. By doing this, there is no accuracy loss due to re setting for different operations.

All Rings are made from solid billets of Aluminium 7075T6 alloy and are available in medium and high configurations.

Ring sizes from 30mm up to 40mm Picatinny Rings available.

Due to the precision of the manufacturing process, lapping is not required when mounted on a quality picatinny rail.

Screws are stainless steel and manufactured by us on our own machines to the highest possible specification.

Design

• Manufactured from High Grade 7075T6 Aluminium for very light weight but excellent rigidity
• Large scope clamping area to withstand heavy recoil
• Made in 30mm-34mm-36mm and 40mm tube sizes
• Mil-Spec 30 micron hard anodized finish
  
• Built in Anti-Cant bubble
• Compatible with Tier-One bolt on accessory rails available for ring caps
• Compatible with Tier-One ring reducers
• One Hit machining to ensure repeatability
• Supplied in Hard Plastic Case complete with necessary Torx bits

Two options for using a fixed bubble level to level the fall of shot with your scope:

If using a holdover reticle:

• Set up a plumb bob line at about 10 – 30 meters.
• Attach the rings to the rifle.
• Put in the scope, lightly tension the ring cap screws.
• Point the rifle / scope at the plumb bob line.
• Level the bubble level on the rings.
• Rotate the scope in the rings so the vertical cross hair is perfectly vertical to the plumb bob line.
• Correctly tension ring cap screws.
• Have a beer.

If dialling up on the elevation turret:

• This is aka a "Tall Target Test".
• Set up a large target at 50m or 100m. 50m is good because you can shoot tiny groups and the wind has no major effect.
• Use a plumb bob to scribe a perfectly vertical line up the target.
• Mount the rings and scope. Get the scope roughly level in the rings by aligning the vertical cross hair with the vertical plumb bob line while the bubble level is level.
• Properly tension the ring screws.
• Zero in on a aiming spot off the line, ensure the bubble level is level.
• Shoot a group at a aiming spot at the bottom of the vertical line. Ensure bubble level is level.
• Dial up an amount and shoot the next group near the top of the vertical line while you still aim at the aiming spot at the bottom. Ensure bubble level is level.
• Note if the high group is to the left or right of the vertical line:
• If it is left; rotate the scope in the rings clockwise a small amount.
• If it is right; rotate the scope in the rings anti-clockwise a small amount.
• Be sure to re-tension the rings correctly. This is a good moment to assess if your scope position and eye relief is comfortable for you.
• Repeat groups until the upper shots group perfectly on the vertical line. Ensure bubble level is level for each shot and group.
• Use this test and some maths to check your scope elevation dial is indeed applying the correct elevation selected. Not all do. Good ballistic solvers have an input to correct for this.
• Not all scopes have the crosshairs aligned perfectly vertical when the elevation dial has the shots tracking perfectly vertical. This is a common issue with anything less than top tier optics.
• Beer.

Note:

• With second focal plane reticle scopes, use the zoom setting you will use in the field when aligning or shooting each group; as many second focal plane scopes will shift POI with zoom changes.